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American Climber Passes Away on Nepal’s Fifth-Highest Peak


An American mountaineer, Alexander Pancoe, 39, died while attempting to climb Mount Makalu in eastern Nepal, as part of a fundraising effort for a children’s cancer program. This incident marks the second death in Nepal’s climbing season, which began in March. Makalu, the fifth-highest mountain, stands at 28,000 feet, nearly as lofty as Everest. Pancoe passed away on Sunday in his sleeping bag at the mountain’s second high camp after returning from an acclimatization trip. Despite hours of resuscitation efforts, he could not be revived, according to his expedition organizers, Madison Mountaineering.

Pancoe had a remarkable background, having survived a brain tumor in his youth and completing the Explorer’s Grand Slam by climbing the highest peaks on each continent and skiing to both Poles. He had been living with chronic myeloid leukemia and aimed to climb Makalu to support the pediatric blood cancer program at Chicago’s Lurie Children’s Hospital. His expedition leader noted that Pancoe had already raised $1 million for clinical trials and related programs.

In April, a Nepali sherpa tragically died on Mount Annapurna, which is the 10th highest mountain globally. Nepal, situated between India and China, is home to eight of the world’s 14 highest peaks, including Everest, making its economy heavily reliant on climbing, trekking, and tourism for foreign exchange. The Nepalese tourism department is coordinating efforts to transport Pancoe’s body to Kathmandu, the capital.

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